25th June. Harare, Zimbabwe

25^th Jan. Harare, Zimbabwe

We didn’t get much out of our $150 Mozambique visa as we passed into Zimbabwe about 24hrs after entering the country. The customs officials on the Zimbabwean side were all very friendly and took our money off us with a smile. The currency used here is the American dollar which was the only way they could stop the hyperinflation that was occurring three years ago. It seemed to have done the trick as the country seems to be functioning quite well from what we can see after the first day. The countryside we passed through was very interesting, still with the villages near the road but a series of inselbergs, kopjes and mountains made it all more appealing.

The guide book doesn’t paint an optimistic photo of us being able to use the ATMs here to withdraw money from our accounts back home so will see what happens tomorrow. We brought a certain amount of US$s with us but the visas have eaten into that already.

If we can get extra cash we will head to the west of the country to Mana Pools NP and also Hwange NP. Both parks are reputed to be worth visiting. Initially we intended passing through Zim quickly but have met many South Africans who rave about it so could spend a couple of weeks if all goes well.

I notice some of the photos didn't load, will try them again

24thJune Tete, Mozambique

24^th June. Tete Mozambique.

Lack of diesel caused us a bit of inconvenience but managed to get 20 litres at a servo which was enough to get us to Blantyre then across the border to the closest servo at Tete. The camp site here is run down and there have been 5 Sth African vehicles pulled up then drive away looking for somewhere else but geez, we’ve had a damn sight worse. I think they expect the same standard elsewhere as they have at home. Their vehicles seem to be fitted out with all the mods and cons but still demand a power supply when they stop. Even the crowd we met in Qualimane on their way to Germany demanded power for their fridges despite only staying the one night. There were cables everywhere. Again at Liwonde NP two couples pulled up in their bakkies and trailers, there were no plugs on the camping ground but it wasn’t long before they had a 50 metre length of cable going to the kitchen. Solar panels are not big yet in SA. Yet we went for 11 months through Asia & Africa without plugging in once. The bonus here is being on the edge of the Zambezi River with an amazing suspension bridge 400 metres up stream. There is a continuous flow of traffic across it but too far away to be a nuisance. As the evening progresses some drums have started playing across the river, very apt.

The diversion to Blantyre was a waste of time as all we did was get into traffic jams around servos that had a bit of fuel and some shopping. The traffic jams were not policed and it proved impossible to even drive past the servo. The cars were all over the road with one cop trying to restore order. It was a fiasco. We ended up diverting through unpaved back streets filled with people and rubbish.

Crossing into Mozambique proved more difficult than last time and cost us a further $75 each just to get a two day transit visa. After filling out the extra forms Joan was taken into an office where she was photographed and finger printed as was I after her. So back into Mozambique where potholes and fuel tankers heading to the border are the order of the day. Seems like the Malawian government has paid its bill at last.

Tomorrow we cross into Zimbabwe where we hope to spend a couple of weeks

The two photos following are at Cape Maclear where we spent a night.

Sunset at Cape Maclear

Sunset at Cape Maclear, Lake Malawi

Cape Maclear, Lake Malawi 21st June

21^st June. Mufasa Camping, Monkey Bay Lake Malawi

We were of two minds whether to come up to Lake Malawi. Three years ago we had spent a fair time on the western part of the lake as we made our way down but Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay were meant to be something again. Where we are now has no power, no cold drinks but an idyllic situation with us parked a few metres from the waters edge while the ‘African Queen’ swings gently on its moorings 20 metres out.

The drive from the national park was uneventful with us being stopped by police only the twice, as we now had the correct papers there was no problem. Our problem now is that there is no diesel in the country. It appears the president sacked an excellent finance minister a couple of years back because he was too popular and put an accountant in his place. The original bloke was an economist and had helped the country considerably. Since the new bloke the country had taken a bad turn for the worse. There is no money to pay for the essentials like fuel. We queued at a diesel pump for 1½ hours yesterday but only to have the pump run out a few cars ahead of us. Distribution was a laugh with no restriction on what could be taken and people were coming in with 44gallon drums on the back of their bakkie. We stopped at another pump here at Monkey Bay where we were told could have some but they had run out ½ hr before. We have enough to get to the border if we drive slowly but restricts what we want to do.

The monkeys have been a nuisance at some of the places we have stayed but at Liwonde they were bad: I had gone away for a while and Joan talked a short distance to the tap, when she came back one of them had got into the van, found the biscuit container that was hidden under clothing and was off up to the top of the nearest tree where he casually opened it up and got stuck into them. Meanwhile all his mates had seen what was happening and swung into action. There were monkeys everywhere but after they had scoffed al the biscuits they left the container in the top branches. Joan was resigned to buying a new one but one of the staff climbed up and retrieved it. It was a thorn tree as well

An Old Man & His Boat.Lake Malawi

Camp at Lake Malawi

Waterbuck at Sunset. Wilombe NP

20th June

18^th June. Liwonde NP, Malawi

It was a trial entering Mozambique and was the same when we left. The closest border from the Isle of Mozambique was due west, some 58o kms from the Isle. The first 180 were on good asphalt, the gravel started after Nampula and progressively became worse. At one stage we contemplated staying at Nampula then doing the longer distance the next day, as it turned out we made the best decision pushing on but that left us with the problem of where to camp for the night. Camp sites are few and far between in Mozambique and there were none n all that distance. We had decided there was no choice than to bush camp for the one night.

This means a choice of camping somewhere in a town like a park or church ground where you are exposed to more people but hope there is security in numbers. The other alternative was to find a place off the road somewhere in the country where you may or may not be spotted. Usually the former happens especially when there is a continuous flow of people walking along the road and villages are frequent. We chose the countryside and found a quarry where we could get a fair way off the road but, with the roof up, would be seen. It wasn’t long before we had a few kids coming to investigate but stood a good distance away, and took off when I approached to give them something to show the white man was friendly. They came back after a while, and took the biscuits. They must have seen whites drive past in the past but doubt they have had one stop especially for the night nearby. It was a beautiful situation with inselbergs shining in the late afternoon glow. The next morning one of the young boys came back, we gave him an exercise book & pencil which brought a beaming smile to his face.

The road was then fairly bad until 27kms from the border where it turned onto a dirt track. We thought the Garmin was stuffing us up again but the locals confirmed that that was it. The border post was mainly for the trains that went between the two countries, the day we crossed over only one other car had crossed before us. Formalities were straight forward however and we were soon grinding our way over a further 47kms of sand, corrugations and washouts before hitting tar.

We were warned about the police in Mozambique before we went to the country but no one warned us about the ones here. The border where we had crossed had no 3^rd party insurance office from where we could buy the compulsory insurance. We asked the customs officer to write a note confirming we were to get the insurance and Zomba or Blantyre, blow me down the next morning before we could purchase it we were stopped by the cops demanding it. In fact we were stopped three times n the matter of an hour but one of those was for speeding which cost me $25. The guide book said the speed limit was 60 in towns, it was actually 50. I will check next time we cross any border.

A quick trip to Zomba then back to this national park that had been recommended to us by Len & Ria. It is on the Shire River and one of the main parks in Malawi. We took a cruise on the river this morning and meandered past hippos, massive crocs and a herd of elephants as well as the usual antelopes and warthogs. The bird life was prolific with this being the breeding season of the white necked cormorant of which there were hundreds. The lodge is very nice and well run by the efficient staff. Solar is big here with heating panels over most buildings and electricity being generated by solar as well.

On Edge of Shire River

Keeping a Watchful Eye

Road to Border

Inselberg with Happy Dancers in Foreground

14th June, Ihle de Mocambique

14^th June, Ihle de Mozambique

We extended our stay somewhat. It’s just a pleasant island, good food and the people are open & friendly. Having a bit of history increases the appeal. We visited the fort yesterday, had James as a guide. We normally just wander on our own but he was part of the ticket price. He gave us enough facts to get a good picture of the place without overloading us with statistics. The island is a World Heritage listed UNESCO site and they have done a fair bit of restoration at the fort. I was intrigued how the original inhabitants set up a catchment area to save any rain that fell. Any horizontal walkway, roof of battlement has channels running off them to catch the water that was held in three underground cisterns. This water was used by the islanders up until a few years ago.

Did more wandering today taking in the hospital. Now mainly uninhabited and derelict it still has a couple of clinics out the back with people sitting around all over the place waiting to be seen. The people of this country are very patient.In its heyday it must have been an amazing building.

Tomorrow we head back to Nampula where we will stay or maybe carry on towards the Malawi border. See how we feel.

Caught by rising tide

Waiting at the hospital. Ihle de Mocambique

The Pineapple Gang. Sweetest we had ever tasted.

Janis, couldn't resist his beautiful smile

13th June. Ihle de Mocambique

12^th June Ihle de Mocambique

An interesting day walking and driving around this fascinating island. It consists of two parts: Stone Town with its grand old buildings many in various stages of disintegration, and Makuti, an area of narrow alleyways, flimsy shelters, energetic kids and squawking chickens. The alleyways are their lounge room and tourists are not welcome unless invited. Stone Town is their area. Makuti is two metres loser than the northern part of the island caused by the quarrying of the coral rock to build the residences in the north. The fort on the end of the island with its 20 metre high walls is the biggest and most intact in sub-Sahara Africa. The slaves were held here before being shipped out. Even during the War of Independence a Portuguese garrison was housed in the fort. To the north of the fort on a tip of land stands a little chapel. There are other interesting old churches here as well.

Our room at the O Escondidinho overlooks a bougainvillea surrounded swimming pool. We learnt today that where the pool is now was the place slaves were brought for buyers standing on the balcony above to bid for them. Such a quiet haven yet with a terrible history.

Well we have come to the realization that Zanzibar may once again be outside our reach. We crossed the border 2½ weeks ago and have travelled over three thousand kilometres since then. The border into Tanzania is still 800kms away and then a further 3-400 to get to Dar es Salaam. We both have felt very tired at times and wonder if it’s worth pushing on to just say we have been there. Our option is to head west into Southern Malawi, an area we haven’t been to, then south into Zimbabwe. This island is very much like Zanzibar in many ways without the tourists.

The country we have driven through hasn’t been that varied and the beaches have been ok but we haven’t found our idyllic one yet. Perhaps we won’t now.

Street Scene, Ihle de Mocambique

Church of Santo Antonio

A couple of Fort San Sebastion

Bridge to Ihle deMocambique. 3 Kms Long

Church at Cabaceira Grande. Built 1579. Still Being Used

Morning Tea Groupies

The Boys Love Rolling Tyres along

Isle of Mozambique. 11th June

11^th June. Ihle de Mocambique

Before leaving on this trip we bought some of the few books available on Mozambique to get an insight of the country. One of them was ‘Mozambique Mysteries’ by Lisa St Aubin de Teran. It was the story of how she started up a tourist hospitality college for the locals in an area on the mainland opposite Mozambique Island. The area had many derelict Portuguese buildings and she used some of these to start up the school as well as a café where the students could practice their skills. The book was also good in giving an insight into the local people, their traditions, hardships and beliefs. Her partner bought a large area of coastal land nearby that they intended building resort accommodation. The author had written many books and had lived a very interesting life but this was to be their idyllic home away from the hectic lives they had led.

It was all very inspiring and a place we thought we might be able to help out for a short while if they needed us. The road to the area was dirt but good, we turned off on to a grass-divided track that meandered past houses where children would chase and oldies would wave. There were signs to the college as well as the café. There was also a camp site shown on the Garmin where we intended staying the night. All the old buildings seemed deserted as we drove past and the camp site had now been turned into a lodge with one of the most beautiful settings you could find. In the distance the old buildings of the Ihle de Mocambique, to the left the calm waters of the Indian Ocean and to the right acres of mangroves. Straight below was a lagoon. This was where Mees, her partner, built his resort. However, on talking to the Dutch partner of the present owner, we found that the college, café, agricultural school she started were no more. She upped and left a couple of years ago leaving the whole community in the lurch. Their chance of finding employment, paying off debts etc wiped away. Her name is dirt in the area. We felt for the locals, they are so gentle people. This morning we drove back to the area and had a look at an old church as well as what remains of the college and café. The young bloke who showed us over the church explained in Portuguese the hurt they felt with her leaving. Incidentally the church, built in 1579, is reputed to be the oldest in the Southern Hemisphere.

The Ihle is connected to the mainland by a 3km single lane bridge. Two concrete stanchions stand at the start of the bridge through which all vehicles must pass. Too wide and the vehicle can’t go over the bridge. The Ihle was the old capital and a holding compound for thousands of slaves before they were shipped to the Americas. The buildings on the island are all very old with many in bad signs of deterioration. There are no camp sites; we are staying in the O Escondinho, a grand old hotel with 5 metre ceilings, thick columns and massive roofing timbers. Tomorrow we will meander around the island, hoping to dodge the map selling touts. Actually, while Joan was getting the stuff we need from the van to take up to the room, I had a good talk to the local boys. When they get over their ‘must sell’ mentality they are great to talk to and refer to me as ‘Papa’.

Qualimane 8th June

8^th June. Qualimane.

We are having to make a 570km emergency dash tomorrow. Joan has run out of coffee. She has had to exist on half cups the last few days, our next stop, Nampula, has a Shoprite so all should be well.

It was a driving day yesterday, covering 540kms but the last 30kms was worse than all the rest; a tarred but narrow badly potholed road where the oncoming traffic refused to move over. Add a continuous line of walkers on either side and a disaster was very much in the offing. We intended travelling to Nampula today but were so exhausted, took the day off. We were the only ones at the campsite, nice and peaceful, but 20 South Africans pulled up later this afternoon in Land Cruisers and motorbikes dispelling the reverie a little. They are heading to Germany and will do it in three months 10 days I was told. A very regimented lot.

This is a very poor country, you see it as you drive along: children often with rags on their back, houses all made with thatch both on the walls and the roof, people walking along the road, to have a bike means you have a little money. Yet the compounds are always neat often their hut have flowers out the front.

We also love the Mozambique sense of rhythm: people both young or old are walking along the road then suddenly they give a little shuffle with their feet, shimmy with their hips and their arms wave to a rhythm they have suddenly thought of. They laugh a lot as well.

The sea here is a little discoloured from the waters of the mighty Zambezi River entering the sea. That happens a little south of here. We crossed it on a new bridge yesterday. It is a massive river, one of the world’s greatest.

This is a short post but thought it best as we will be travelling a fair distance the next few days.

Qualemaine, 7th June

5^th June. Gorongosa NP, Mozambique

We were of two minds whether to drop in to this park but we had already driven 500kms today and it was to be another 240 before we would make it to a camp site. Fortunately the pot holes we were expecting only appeared in a few places, generally it was good asphalt.

During the 17 year war most of the animals in the national parks in this country were shot and used for food. I have posted a photo showing just how decimated the animal population was. In the last 15 years, with the aid of the Carr Foundation of the US, the animal numbers have increased dramatically. It has also become known for the way the local tribe has helped in the running of the place. We had a hands-on experience tonight as the sun was setting. We had noticed this little old lady pushing this old wheel barrow around the camping ground with large bits of log on it, didn’t think much of it until I was just about to form the camp fire with a few bits of wood I had found, next thing she’s up with her barrow, throws off the timber she had on and scurries off. She was back a few minutes later with some kindling and a shovel of hot embers, she sets it up then she’s down on her haunches blowing the embers to get it going I asked one of the campers about her, he said she’s at it from first light, working around the camp ground. In fact all the staff are very friendly and helpful.

The night before we had spent at Vilankulo, a beach side town popular with South Africans. It was Saturday night and the place was hopping. The music from the nearby discos seemed to go all night only to be replaced by the Muezzin’s call to prayer at 5AM. Not to be outdone the next thing we hear what seemed like a heavenly band of choristers making sure the Christians weren’t forgotten. All this at 5 in the morning. The roosters also were confused with it all and started crowing at 3AM.

6^th June

Two games drive today through a very interesting park. We didn’t expect much as far as animals were concerned but were surprised just how many we came upon. The outstanding feature was the hundreds of water buck we came upon especially on the plain late this afternoon. They are a big antelope with beautifully curved horns and a white circle on their rump. The bird life was profuse with many endemic species. A group of Sth African twitchers are in the camp site next to us and are in raptures with what they have seen today. Ross & Cathy, eat your heart out. Tonight we were just about to eat when Allen, one of the neighbours called out, ‘Gary, come here quick!’ They had just seen a civet cat walk past the toilet block. Unfortunately we were too late to see it. They are smaller than a leopard but with beautiful markings similar to a leopard.

The Fire Lady, Gorongosa NP

The Animal List, Then & Now

The Old Viewing Platform, Gorongosa NP

Water Buck & Goose on Plains

They Were Serenading Their Dad While He Plastered a Wall

Derelict Portuguese Horel.Pomene

Old Hotel

Pomene Beach

1^st June, Pomene Beach.

Built at the end of a 22km isthmus, this camp site has the Indian Ocean to sea, a river estuary to the west. We drove through deep sand in places to get here, skirting the mangroves for much of the distance. The 60km drive from the highway was very interesting with us passing through a variety of cultivated land, swamps, high dunes and of course the sand. We don’t normally pick up people wanting lifts as room in the front is restricted but traffic on this road is infrequent and Vikitor looked hot and desperate. A nice man, almost 50, he was one of the few people we have seen with graying hair. He worked at the other lodge on the peninsula and public transport out to it is non existent.

The ruins of a hotel stand on a point of land nearby. It was abandoned in 1975 when the Portuguese were thrown out. Known as the 48/5 law, they were given 48 hours and could take only 5 bits of luggage per person. Sounds tough but they weren’t the most generous of colonials and treated the Africans no better than serfs. Following their departure the country was embroiled in a 17 year war in which the South African army and the CIA threw everything they could at the fledgling government to try and overturn the socialist government. Along the way the Mozambique president, Samora Machel, was assassinated, his plane being shot down near the South African border. His party, Frelimo. survived and, I think, has been in power ever since.

The country has still along way to not rely on foreign aid but is slowly getting there. I believe aid has reduced from 70% to fewer than 50% of the economy. It is still very much a third world country but tourism is starting to bring money into the country’s coffers.

2^nd June.

We have decided to stay a third night here. It’s very nice, not crowded and with the use of a baraca gives us just a bit more comfort. A baraca is a 3mx3m thatched shelter with one side covered in. It has a cement floor, light and power point. Usually people would erect their tent in it but we have parked the bakkie next door and using it as a lounge. I have spent the day spray painting all and sundry. Our Engel fridge has always annoyed me the way it showed its wear and tear from being a rental vehicle so a while back I bought some silver spray paint and sanding paper. Today was the first opportunity I had to spruce it up. It looks great. Had some over so did the jerry cans on the back and maybe the wheel rims tomorrow.

Just harking back to my birthday on the 31^st: we decided to eat out at Morrungul and ordered a seafood platter for two. Whereas the previous one was delicious, this one was a shocker. None of the sea food was fresh, all frozen, and I had a crook gut afterward. Disappointing as I had just bought fish that afternoon and had been offered prawns and crays by locals.

Last night I cooked the fish. I love cooking fish with the scales still on as the juices are retained. But this one was so fat I was unsure it would cook all the way through on the coals. I turned it over every minute of so, after 30 minutes we took it off. It was cooked perfectly. One side more than did the 2 of us, we are having the other side in a Mediterranean stew tonight. It’s a hard life.

Camp & Baraca at Pomene

Vegie Sellers at Pomene Beach

Testing the Springs of the Isuzu

31st May. On the Beach, Morrungulo Lodge

31^st May. Morrungulo Lodge. Mozambique.

Firstly thank you for the emails sent regarding my birthday. Sorry some of you are still having trouble adding a comment onto the blog.

A very pleasant place to spend a couple of nights. Right on the beach, green grass, plenty of fish, all we have to worry about are the coconuts falling. All through the night there would be the sound of then thudding to the ground. It took us 10 minutes on arrival positioning the van to dodge any.

We are slowly making our way up the coast and passed the Tropic of Capricorn yesterday. In the next few days we will make it to Vilankulo then head inland for a while.

This is our 5^th camp in a row that we have been the sole occupants. The chalets many of them have are sometimes occupied but it is really the off season for campers.

The road is still good asphalt but as we head into the northern part of the country they will no doubt deteriorate. The guide books and people we spoke to before we crossed over all warned us about the police here. It appears they are very poorly paid and supplement their income by extracting money from the tourists. Keep well within the speed limit and make sure seat belts are worn we were advised. The first one is a little difficult as the main road passes through a small village every few kilometers and they all have a 60km speed limit. Two red triangles need to be carried in case of breakdown and have now introduced a ruling that a reflective jacket has also to be carried in the vehicle. It appears this has caught many Sth Africans out. We were able to find one in an Indian shop in Inhumbane. So far we have passed many police check points without having to stop. Perhaps they see a pair of geriatrics with one crocheting as we go along and take pity on us.

Bought Not Caught

Afternoon Snooze