Qualemaine, 7th June

5^th June. Gorongosa NP, Mozambique

We were of two minds whether to drop in to this park but we had already driven 500kms today and it was to be another 240 before we would make it to a camp site. Fortunately the pot holes we were expecting only appeared in a few places, generally it was good asphalt.

During the 17 year war most of the animals in the national parks in this country were shot and used for food. I have posted a photo showing just how decimated the animal population was. In the last 15 years, with the aid of the Carr Foundation of the US, the animal numbers have increased dramatically. It has also become known for the way the local tribe has helped in the running of the place. We had a hands-on experience tonight as the sun was setting. We had noticed this little old lady pushing this old wheel barrow around the camping ground with large bits of log on it, didn’t think much of it until I was just about to form the camp fire with a few bits of wood I had found, next thing she’s up with her barrow, throws off the timber she had on and scurries off. She was back a few minutes later with some kindling and a shovel of hot embers, she sets it up then she’s down on her haunches blowing the embers to get it going I asked one of the campers about her, he said she’s at it from first light, working around the camp ground. In fact all the staff are very friendly and helpful.

The night before we had spent at Vilankulo, a beach side town popular with South Africans. It was Saturday night and the place was hopping. The music from the nearby discos seemed to go all night only to be replaced by the Muezzin’s call to prayer at 5AM. Not to be outdone the next thing we hear what seemed like a heavenly band of choristers making sure the Christians weren’t forgotten. All this at 5 in the morning. The roosters also were confused with it all and started crowing at 3AM.

6^th June

Two games drive today through a very interesting park. We didn’t expect much as far as animals were concerned but were surprised just how many we came upon. The outstanding feature was the hundreds of water buck we came upon especially on the plain late this afternoon. They are a big antelope with beautifully curved horns and a white circle on their rump. The bird life was profuse with many endemic species. A group of Sth African twitchers are in the camp site next to us and are in raptures with what they have seen today. Ross & Cathy, eat your heart out. Tonight we were just about to eat when Allen, one of the neighbours called out, ‘Gary, come here quick!’ They had just seen a civet cat walk past the toilet block. Unfortunately we were too late to see it. They are smaller than a leopard but with beautiful markings similar to a leopard.