Hwange NP 4th July

Hwange NP.4^th July

Hwange is reputed to have the largest concentration of elephants in the world. Some 30,000 of them. It’s a big park not far from Victoria Falls. We headed to the park on leaving Bulawayo but instead of heading into the park we decided to stay the first night at a lodge near the park boundary that allowed camping. Not only allowing camping, but because of a group that took up most of the camping area, we were placed separately within 50 metres of a water hole that had been formed to attract the animals. Our own private water hole you might say. Here we were, sitting on our chairs at the back of the van while wart hogs, a family of kudu and then an elephant all came down to drink. Later we saw a few other types with the aid of a spotlight.

The lodge itself was very low key, reasonably priced and with a great staff. That night they lit a fire for us, Costa the cook and another staff member sat with us chewing the fat. In the morning Absel, a member of the staff showed me the spoor of the animals that had visited that night.

The next morning we went into the park, did some washing & housework then took off on a 120km game drive that looped around the southern part of the park. Early on the vegetation was quite thick with little sign of animals, but after lunch, we turned a corner and there were about 30-40 elephants at a pan. All sizes happily drinking when suddenly a group of roan antelope appeared stage right most likely wanting to take a drink as well. They walked down towards the pan then suddenly took off running alongside the herd and spooking them no end. There were elephants going in all directions trumpeting and ears flapping. I would never have thought they would be so upset by an animal much smaller but I guess they are faster and know they could outrun an elephant. The roan is a big antelope, a bit smaller than a horse with backward curving horns. We were just ready to take advantage of the road clearing when a further group of 50 or so elephants appeared also stage right making their way to the water throwing up a cloud of dust in their wake. It was all so awesome.

We moved on taking in the odd animal at the various pan until we came to the first sign we had seen since starting the loop; ‘Main Camp 55kms’ the gates close at 6pm and it was now after 5.The road was not the best and the speed limit in the park was 40kph. Sorry, but it was a case of a mad dash back as some camps fine late returnees quite a large sum. The elephants we encountered were considerate leaving the road clear but just as darkness was upon us, the legs of a giraffe appeared coming on to the road. I braked hard and he took evasive action as well. A collision would have made a pretty mess to both of us. Just up the road Joan discerned in the murkiness two lionesses walking along the road. They moved to one side letting us take a photo before moving on. Our first sighting of lions on this trip.

The next morning we took off on the 120km drive between the two camps. We left at a reasonable hour but stopovers at different water holes and hides saw us a long way from the designated picnic area at lunch time. These picnic spots are meant to be the only places where people are allowed to leave your vehicle as they are fenced and there is usually a guard on hand. We decided to bend the rules and have a quick lunch near a large pan where nobody was around and the only action was a hippo surfacing every now and then. Hadn’t been there 5 minutes when a family of 9 elephants came down to have a drink. They were less than 70 metres away but seemed unconcerned with our presence though one of the bulls kept an eye on us. A short time later a further 3 came down including what must have been a newly born baby. We have seen plenty of them but to just sit there for half an hour and watch the interaction in the group was a delight. They are such beautiful animals.

Further on we came upon a lion guarding a dead cape buffalo that the lionesses must have killed the previous night. This was within 2metres of the road. Vultures were waiting patiently in the trees and jackals circled for a chance to duck in. It was very dramatic and quite unexpected. It was a big animal and must have taken a lot to bring down.

The camp we ended up at, Sinamantela, is built on a mesa 55 metres above the surrounding plain. The camp sites all had a bird’s eye view of the game below. In the early morning the roaring of a lion could be heard as well as other strange noises.

5^th July Victoria Falls.

Seeing we were so close to the falls we decided to take a look from the Zimbabwe side. We were disappointed as more spray comes upon this side making it difficult or in most cases impossible, to see the bottom of the falls. It could have been the breeze blowing our way or the quantity of water going over but the Zambian side where we had been three years ago seemed to be better for viewing. The town was full of tourists, the campsite full of drunken noisy overlanders who partied till after twelve.